Bath

What a great day trip!  I left the flat this morning before 7:00; walked to the bus and was in the median waiting for the light to change when my bus drives by.  The driver was nice and held up while I ran down the street when the light changed green for me.  I got to Paddington Station in just a few minutes.  I bought my round trip ticket and walked on to the train, which had a 7:30 departure.  Easy, peasey, lemon squeezey.

The city center is very close to the train station and is compact, which makes for easy navigation.  Unlike London, the city has elevation changes and some steep hills.  That makes for great viewing up on the high spots.  As I walked, I headed up, figuring that if I started at the top, I could work my way down during the day and end up back at the train station, which is the lowest place.  My day didn't stick to that original plan, but that was OK.

So first up was great architecture viewing and then the Fashion Museum.  The first exhibit is about wedding dresses and the changing of styles over the years.  Very fun.  The room I liked the best is a behind the scenes look at the dress styles throughout the 1800s and into the 1900s.  They change up the dresses and you can see their inventory boxes in the back of the glass display areas.  And the shoes!  Oh my.  Love them.

After the museum, I headed down to the Roman Bath.  I entered in from the wrong side, edged my way through the Pump Room, and found my way to the main entry.  Since I had bought a combo ticket at the Fashion Museum, I walked right in.  Apparently I acted like a clueless, gauche American and bypassed the line that was so long it was down the side of the building.  Had I seen it, I would have waited my turn.  Oops. 

I took one of the free audio guide handsets and I'm glad I did.  I didn't listen to all the commentary, but when I was down at the outside viewing of the bath, I found the audio very informative.  If I could go again, I would not chose a Saturday afternoon.  Crazy crowded.  But, the site itself is beautiful, impressive, and with the steam coming off the water, could sort of imagine myself in ancient times. 

I decided not to have tea in The Pump Room because the line for that was too long and tea for one started at 17 pounds.  I can't imagine any tea experience needing to be that expensive.  Can a cup of tea and cake be worth $30?  Seemed steep to me.

Instead, I headed to the vegetarian restaurant my guidebook recommended.  So glad I went.  I had the roasted squash on sourdough toast with hummus and a lemon finishing oil.  It came with fresh greens and a nasturtium flower.  Gorgeous and delicious.  The menu is coded for vegan, and dishes with nuts.  That made choosing a dessert really easy.  I went with the vegan chocolate mousse with the pink peppercorn lace cookie and a cup of coffee.  I waddled out of there, happy with my meal that cost 18.20 pounds -- the whole thing.  Much better value than the Pump Room and way more satisfying.  Not to say that I would ever pay that in dollars for a regular lunch, but this was both lunch and dinner and just wonderful.

Next up was the Abbey.  The stained glass was so impressive.  My favorite features were the chandeliers.  Looking back through the photos, I think I have about 8, just of the light fixtures.  There was a statue at the back that I also liked.  I couldn't read the carving at the base to figure out the meaning and purpose behind it.  I opted not to climb the 212 steps to go up to the top and see the view.  I was getting tired.

But not so tired that I didn't walk back up the hill to the Jane Austen Center.  On the way I discovered a kitchen shop that is the end of all kitchen shops --a nirvana of cook wear, a true destination kind of kitchen shop.  I found a different size bread pan than I have ever seen before; it is a 7 1/4 by 4 1/2, about the same area as an 8 x 4, but the loaf will come out wider/fatter.  That is a perfect souvenir for me.  I was so excited, I could barely contain myself.  The fruit and cardamon bread is going to be great in that pan.  I'm glad I didn't see that shop first thing in my day 'cause the loaf pan wasn't the only thing I purchased. 

I didn't do the tour at the Jane Austen Center, because there were so many people and the room seemed too small to accommodate everybody.  I started to get a little sweaty.  I went to the gift shop instead and had fun looking around.  Going there did solve a mystery.  There were people dressed up in period dress that I had seen all day.  Turns out they were part of the weekend kick-off to the Jane Austen Festival that runs through next week.

I went back down the hill a different way and stumbled upon a cheese shop that the guide book recommended.  I bought some egg-less tea cookies and crackers.  If my train ride back wasn't over an hour, I would have bought some cheese to bring back. 

My final stop in town was the park.  I loved the flower pots.  I would never have put all those colors together, but it totally worked.  I found a Mozart statue that had animal friends circling his shoes.  And then there was the pig sculpture.  There is some story about the pigs in Bath, but I'm not clear on what it is.  But that wasn't the first pig reference that I had seen all day.

At 6:00 I wandered back down to the train station, going against the flow of people streaming up the hill towards the rugby pitch.  Everybody was wearing the blue and white Bath team colors and most had on official looking jerseys.  I didn't know when the next train to London would be pulling in, as I had forgotten to print out the east bound schedule.  Turned out I had to wait only 13 minutes.  Not too bad.

Next time I go back, I want to go into to one of the thermal baths and do the spa thing.  That is an experience to look forward to.